Ford Escape problems in this generation start with the 2013 redesign: new model, two new turbo engines — and the most recalled compact SUV of its era. The 2013 piled up well over a thousand NHTSA complaints: engines catching fire, harsh-shifting transmissions, steering cutting out mid-drive, doors unlatching on the highway. Later years improved, but the trouble spots never fully went away. Below: the known failures with repair costs, recalls to check by VIN, which engine to pick, and a test-drive checklist.
The short version
The 1.6L EcoBoost (2013–2016) was recalled repeatedly for coolant-related overheating fire risk — Ford once told owners to park their cars until the fix arrived — and overheated examples can need a $4,000–$6,000 engine. The 6F35 six-speed automatic shifts harshly, shudders, and can fail at $3,500–$5,000 to replace. Power steering can cut out without warning ($2,000+ for a rack), and 2013–2015 door latches can unlatch while driving. The 2.5L naturally aspirated engine is the safest pick in this generation — dull, but durable.
Known failures, by system
1. 1.6L EcoBoost: coolant leaks, overheating, and engine fires (the big one)
The 1.6L EcoBoost was Ford's volume engine — and its launch was a disaster. Four recalls hit it in the 2013 model's first year: falling-out coolant plugs, cracking fuel lines, and an overheating condition that could start an engine fire. Roughly 89,000 Escapes and Fusions were recalled in late 2012 — owners were told to park their cars until the fix arrived — and a 2017 recall addressed 1.6L coolant circulation problems yet again.
- Symptoms
- Coolant loss with no puddle; temperature gauge climbing; white smoke or steam; misfires; worst case, smoke or flames from the engine bay.
- Why it happens
- Early-1.6L coolant-path problems — leaking plugs, a control valve that didn't open at the right time, and circulation issues that overheated the head. An overheated engine can warp the head, blow the gasket, or crack the block — and fluid on hot exhaust parts is what started the fires.
- Typical repair cost
- $4,000–$6,000 for an installed replacement engine at an independent shop. Used-engine swaps gamble on the same weaknesses. Head-gasket work runs $1,800–$2,800 — only if the head and block check out straight.
- Years affected
- 2013 is worst, but the 1.6L was offered through 2016. The 1.5L EcoBoost — with its own coolant-intrusion problems — didn't reach the Escape until the 2017 refresh, so it's not part of this guide.
2. 6F35 six-speed automatic: harsh shifting, shudder, and failure
Every 2013–2016 Escape uses Ford's 6F35 six-speed automatic — a conventional torque-converter unit, not the Focus's dual-clutch (some advice sites confuse the two). Complaints cluster on harsh or delayed shifts, shuddering, slipping, and power loss. Ford issued service bulletins and a reprogramming campaign, but these are band-aids on already-wearing units.
- Symptoms
- Hard or jerky shifts, especially 1–2 and 2–3; shuddering under light acceleration; delayed engagement from park or reverse; slipping between gears; occasional limp-mode power loss.
- Why it happens
- Worn solenoids, valve-body issues, torque-converter problems, and heat-degraded fluid. "Lifetime fluid" that was never serviced is a common thread in failed units, which typically surface between roughly 80,000 and 120,000 miles.
- Typical repair cost
- $3,500–$5,000 for a full replacement at an independent shop; dealers often quote higher. Rebuilds run $1,800–$3,000 with shorter warranties. A $200–$400 fluid service only helps before the unit is damaged.
- Years affected
- 2013–2014 worst — peak complaint years. 2015–2016 improved, but every year in this range uses the 6F35, so test-drive checks matter on all of them.
3. Electric power steering loss
Third-gen Escapes use electric power steering, and when it fails, it fails suddenly: the "Steering Assist Fault" message appears and steering effort goes to truck-without-power-steering levels — mid-drive, mid-turn, no warning. Failures are reported as low as 30,000–40,000 miles, and the fix is an integrated rack-plus-module unit that needs dealer-level programming to the car's VIN.
- Symptoms
- "Steering Assist Fault" warning; steering suddenly extremely heavy, sometimes intermittently at first; the fault can reset with a restart and return days later.
- Why it happens
- Internal failure of the power steering control module or the rack — the same EPAS failure family that triggered a recall on 2008–2011 Escapes, never extended to 2013–2016, so the repair is on the owner.
- Typical repair cost
- $2,000–$2,300 at a dealer with programming and alignment. Independent options are limited by the programming requirement and usually still land near $1,800+.
- Years affected
- 2013–2014 most reported, with complaints into 2015–2016. Turn the wheel lock to lock on every test drive and listen for ratcheting noises.
4. Door latches that can unlatch while driving
A door that opens at speed is as serious as it gets — and it generated some of this generation's largest recalls. A broken pawl spring inside the side-door latch can let the door unlatch, or make the driver believe a door is closed when it isn't. Ford recalled 2013–2015 Escapes, then recalled them again when replacement latches also broke. A separate recall covers 2013–2014s for door handles that bind and defeat the latch.
- Symptoms
- Doors hard to close or bouncing back; "door ajar" light after closing; a door popping open while driving. Heat and sun exposure appear to make failures more likely.
- Why it happens
- A pawl spring tab inside the latch breaks; on 2013–2014s, binding exterior door handles interfere with the latch. Some repaired cars got replacement latches that could also fail, so even a car with recall paperwork deserves a fresh check.
- Typical repair cost
- Free at a Ford dealer if the recall is still open for that VIN — check before you pay a dime. Out-of-pocket latch replacement runs roughly $300–$600 per door.
- Years affected
- 2013–2015 in the latch recalls; the 2016 is outside that population. 2013–2014 also carry the door-handle recall. Run the VIN before purchase, whatever the year.
5. 2.0L EcoBoost: better, not blameless
The 2.0L EcoBoost (240 hp) is our pick if you insist on a turbo — it avoided the 1.6L's fire saga. It's not clean, though: a recall covered early 2013 2.0L Escapes for a wiring-harness splice that could cause hesitation or stalling. Turbo-maintenance habits still apply — timely oil changes with quality oil.
6. MyFord Touch and electrical annoyances
SYNC with MyFord Touch is widely reported as a frustration point: frozen or black screens, self-rebooting, Bluetooth that refuses to connect. Fixes range from a software reflash (a few hundred dollars) to replacing the APIM module ($500–$1,000+). Also budget the usual wear items — wheel bearings, struts, links, brakes. Annoying, not engine-budget money.
Which engine and transmission to choose
2.5L Duratec (S): the 168-hp carryover engine — no turbo, no fire recalls. Slowest and FWD only, but the one we'd hand a family member. 2.0L EcoBoost (Titanium): the best of the turbos — quick, and it skipped the 1.6L's fire recalls. Verify the wiring recall is done on a 2013. 1.6L EcoBoost (SE): the volume engine and the one to avoid — worst complaint history, fire recalls, worst resale for a reason. Transmission: every engine pairs with the 6F35, so there's no transmission to dodge — only test drives and fluid-service records (every 30,000–60,000 miles).
Recalls to check by VIN
Run every VIN through NHTSA's free recall lookup and confirm each item was completed, not just issued. The big ones: multiple 2013 campaigns on the 1.6L for coolant leaks, cracked fuel lines, and the late-2012 overheating fire risk (Ford told owners to park their cars until the fix arrived), plus a 2017 coolant-circulation recall; the door-latch recalls on 2013–2015s (including the re-recall); the handle recall on 2013–2014s; the wiring-splice recall on early 2013 2.0L models; and airbag-software recalls on 2013–2014s. Dealer recall repairs are free — make the seller complete open ones before you buy.
Years to avoid vs. safer picks
🚫 Highest risk
- 2013: the redesign year — peak complaints, four 1.6L recalls, worst transmission complaints. Only buy a 2.5L, inspected, and priced like the risk.
- 2014 with the 1.6L: the fire-recall engine, with latch and handle recalls on top.
✅ Safer picks
- 2015–2016 with the 2.5L: the safest combo; the 2016 sits outside the latch recalls.
- 2015–2016 with the 2.0L EcoBoost: the acceptable turbo — far fewer engine complaints, with documented fluid service.
- Any year with a 1.6L: buy only with completed recall paperwork, no coolant loss on a cold start, and a price reflecting the segment's worst resale.
What they cost: fair-market pricing from comparable listings
Third-gen Escape listings sit in budget-SUV territory. 2015–2016 models with under ~100,000 miles generally list from $8,000–$12,000, with the 2.5L and 2.0L commanding the upper end. 2013–2014s — especially the 1.6L — typically list at $6,000–$9,500, and that discount is the market pricing in the engine and transmission risk, much like how the cheap Jeep Patriot is priced around its transmission trouble. High-mileage examples (120,000+ miles) dip below $6,000.
Your Escape test-drive checklist
Start with a stone-cold engine and plan for 30 minutes — half the Escape's failures only show when the car is cold or fully hot.
- Cold-check the coolant. Engine stone cold, check the reservoir. Low coolant with no visible leak on a 1.6L is the biggest red flag — walk away.
- Cold start and idle. Listen for rough idle or misfires; watch for white exhaust smoke.
- Scan for codes. A free parts-store scan can reveal misfire, coolant, steering, and transmission codes — even with no warning light on.
- Shift-quality test. Light throttle from a stop, then moderate acceleration through 1–2 and 2–3. Any harsh bang, flare, or shudder is a fail.
- Highway heat run. Hold 65–70 mph for 15+ minutes, then repeat the shift test — complaints surface once the fluid is fully hot.
- Lock-to-lock steering. Turn the wheel fully each way. Ratcheting noises or heaviness point at the rack; a fault after restart is a walk-away sign.
- Slam and bounce every door. Confirm each latch catches and the door-ajar light goes out; push each closed door to try to force it open. Verify recalls by VIN anyway.
- Work the infotainment. Cycle the SYNC screen, pair a phone, test the backup camera. Freezing screens are a negotiating chip.
- Get it on a lift. Look for coolant staining at the front of the engine, transmission fluid seepage, and suspension wear.
- Ask for the fluid history. The 6F35 should have had fluid service every 30,000–60,000 miles. "Lifetime fluid, never changed" at six figures is a red flag — we hold the same bar in our Jeep Cherokee guide.
What a history report won't tell you
A clean history report tells you an Escape hasn't been wrecked or flooded. It doesn't tell you whether the 6F35 bangs into second when hot, whether the 1.6L is drinking coolant, whether steering assist cuts out, or whether the transmission fluid was ever serviced. Two identical 2014 Escapes with clean reports can be a $5,000 engine apart — the cold start, the 30-minute test drive, and the VIN recall check are what separate them.
Frequently asked questions
Is a 2013 Ford Escape a good first car for a teenager?
Generally, no — engine fires, stalling, and steering loss aren't what you want a new driver handling alone at 70 mph. If the budget forces one, insist on the 2.5L engine, completed recalls, and a full inspection.
Which Ford Escape years are the worst?
2013, by a wide margin — the redesign year with the peak complaint count and the most recalls. The 1.6L EcoBoost (offered 2013–2016) carries the worst engine record from its coolant-related fire recalls. The 2015–2016 models with the 2.5L or 2.0L are the relatively safe years.
Are the door latches still a problem if the recall was done?
Often fixed, but not guaranteed — Ford re-recalled many 2013–2015 Escapes because replacement latches from the first campaign could also break. Run the VIN, confirm all latch recalls are closed (not just open), and slam-test every door in person.
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