If you're shopping for an affordable used SUV, the 2014–2019 Jeep Cherokee (the "KL" generation) is hard to miss. They're everywhere, they're cheap — often thousands less than a comparable RAV4 or CR-V — and the Trailhawk versions genuinely handle rough roads. That price gap exists for a reason, and it's mostly spelled T-R-A-N-S-M-I-S-S-I-O-N.

This guide covers the failures we see on these Cherokees, what each one costs to fix, which model years carry the most risk, and a test-drive checklist that catches the expensive problems before you sign anything. If you find one you're serious about, the last section explains how to get a verdict on that exact car.

The short version

The 2014–2015 Cherokees are the ones to be most careful with: the ZF 9-speed automatic had serious teething problems, including harsh shifting, delayed engagement, and in some cases complete failure. Later years got software and hardware refinements, but the 9-speed never became anyone's favorite transmission. The 2.4L four-cylinder drinks oil, and 4x4 models can develop expensive driveline issues. Buy one with full service records and a clean test drive — or keep looking.

Known failures, by system

1. The ZF 9-speed automatic transmission (the big one)

Every 2014–2019 Cherokee uses the ZF-designed 9HP 9-speed automatic (Chrysler calls it the 948TE). Jeep rushed it to market — the Cherokee's launch was actually delayed weeks so engineers could recalibrate the transmission software — and owners have been dealing with the consequences ever since. Hundreds of complaints were filed with NHTSA, and Jeep issued multiple recalls and software updates for 2014–2015 models, including one for a faulty clutch that could shift the transmission into neutral without warning.

Symptoms
Harsh or jerky shifts (especially 1st–3rd gears), a 1–2 second delay when accelerating from a stop, shuddering during acceleration, gears slipping (RPM climbs without the car speeding up), and the transmission hunting for gears on the highway.
Why it happens
A combination of immature shift calibration and hardware issues in early units. Software updates helped some cars, but owners widely report that updates never fully cured the rough shifting — it reflects deeper issues in the transmission itself.
Typical repair cost
$3,500–$8,000 for a full transmission replacement; valve-body and clutch work can run $1,500–$3,000. This is the repair that totals these cars.
Years affected
2014–2018, with 2014–2015 by far the worst. The 2019 refresh brought refinements, but early 2019 production still deserves scrutiny.

2. 2.4L Tigershark four-cylinder oil consumption

The base 2.4L "Tigershark" MultiAir engine (standard on most Sport, Latitude, and Limited trims) has a well-documented appetite for oil. Owners report needing to add a quart or more between oil changes — and the danger is that a buyer who doesn't check the oil can run it low enough to cause real engine damage.

Symptoms
Oil level dropping noticeably between changes, low-oil warning light, ticking noise on startup when oil is low.
Why it happens
Owners and technicians report piston-ring and cylinder-wall wear patterns that let oil past into the combustion chamber. It's a design characteristic of this engine family, not a maintenance failure.
Typical repair cost
Ongoing top-offs cost little, but a neglected engine can need a rebuild or replacement at $4,000–$6,000.
Years affected
2014–2018 with the 2.4L. The 3.2L V6 doesn't share this problem and is generally the stronger engine choice.

3. PTU and rear driveline issues (4x4 models)

Cherokees with Active Drive 4x4 (especially Trailhawks) route power through a Power Transfer Unit (PTU) and a rear drive module. These units are known to wear, and when they do, the repair is not cheap.

Symptoms
Whining or grinding from underneath the car that changes with speed, binding or shuddering in tight turns, "Service 4WD" warnings.
Why it happens
Heat and load wear the PTU's bearings and gears; neglected fluid changes accelerate it. Many owners never service these units because the maintenance schedule barely mentions them.
Typical repair cost
$2,000–$3,500+ for PTU replacement; rear drive module failures land in similar territory.
Years affected
All 4x4 KL Cherokees, 2014–2019. Trailhawks see harder use, so inspect them more carefully.

4. Electrical gremlins and Uconnect issues

Less expensive but worth knowing: owners report intermittent electrical quirks — Uconnect screen freezes and reboots, backup camera failures, and battery drain from modules that don't sleep properly.

Symptoms
Infotainment freezing, dead battery after sitting a few days, random warning lights.
Why it happens
Software bugs and, in some cases, failing modules. Often fixed with updates, occasionally with module replacement.
Typical repair cost
$0–$600 — software updates are cheap; a replacement Uconnect unit or module is not.
Years affected
2014–2016 most commonly, as later software revisions cleaned things up.

Years to avoid vs. safer picks

🚫 Highest risk

  • 2014–2015: peak 9-speed problems, multiple recalls, most NHTSA complaints. Only consider with documented transmission replacement and a perfect test drive.
  • 2014–2016 with the 2.4L: oil consumption plus early-transmission risk is a bad combination.

✅ Safer picks

  • 2019: refreshed model with transmission refinements and the 2.0L turbo option. Still verify with a thorough test drive.
  • Any year with the 3.2L V6: the stronger engine — no oil-consumption reputation — though it still uses the 9-speed, so the transmission checklist below applies.
  • Any year with a replaced transmission: a documented dealer replacement is genuinely good news, not a red flag.

Your Cherokee test-drive checklist

Do these in order. If the car fails more than one, walk away — there are plenty of Cherokees out there.

  1. Cold-start shift test. Start the car cold and drive gently through the first few gears. Feel for harsh 1–2 and 2–3 shifts, flaring (RPM jumping between gears), or a long delay pulling away from a stop.
  2. Stop-and-go for 10 minutes. The 9-speed's worst behavior shows up in city driving. Any shuddering, lurching, or gear-hunting is a fail.
  3. Highway kickdown. At 55–60 mph, press the accelerator firmly. The downshift should be prompt and smooth — hesitation or a hard slam is a warning sign.
  4. Check the oil level yourself. Pop the hood and pull the dipstick — especially on the 2.4L. Low oil on a dealer lot means it's burning it; ask when it was last changed and do the math.
  5. Listen for driveline whine (4x4). Drive at steady speeds from 20–60 mph with the radio off. A whine or hum that tracks vehicle speed points at the PTU or rear drive unit.
  6. Engage 4WD modes. Cycle through the Selec-Terrain modes (including 4WD Low on Trailhawks). Any grinding, binding, or warning lights — walk away.
  7. Check for open recalls by VIN. Run the VIN through NHTSA's free recall lookup before you go. Unperformed transmission recalls are common on these.
  8. Ask for transmission service records. Software updates, valve-body work, or a full replacement should be documented. "We don't have records" on a 2014–2016 is a red flag.
  9. Test every electronic function. Uconnect screen, backup camera, heated seats, power liftgate. Replacing a head unit is a $500+ surprise you don't need.
  10. Scan for codes. A cheap OBD-II scanner (or any auto parts store, free) can reveal stored transmission codes the seller "didn't know about."

What a history report won't tell you

A clean vehicle-history report on a Cherokee tells you it hasn't been wrecked or flooded. It does not tell you whether the transmission shudders on a cold morning, whether the previous owner topped off the oil every 1,000 miles, or whether the dealer applied the transmission software updates — service visits for software flashes often never appear on history reports. Two identical-looking Cherokees with clean reports can be a $4,000 transmission apart. The test drive above is what separates them.

Frequently asked questions

Is the 2019 Jeep Cherokee reliable?

It's the best year of this generation — the refresh brought transmission calibration improvements and the 2.0L turbo engine option. It's still a 9-speed, so run the full checklist above, but a well-maintained 2019 is a meaningfully safer bet than a 2014–2016.

Should I get the 2.4L or the 3.2L V6?

The 3.2L V6. It avoids the 2.4L's oil-consumption issues, tows more, and generally holds up better. The trade-off is slightly worse fuel economy — worth it.

The seller says the transmission was already replaced. Good or bad?

Good — genuinely. A documented dealer transmission replacement means the car's biggest risk was already addressed with a newer unit. Verify the paperwork and still do the test drive, but this is a plus, not a minus.

Does a clean Carfax mean the Cherokee is fine?

No. History reports track accidents, titles, and reported service — not how the transmission shifts or how much oil the engine burns. On this car especially, the mechanical inspection matters more than the paperwork.

What about the Cherokee Trailhawk — is it more reliable?

Mechanically it's the same car with better 4x4 hardware, but Trailhawks tend to have lived harder lives off-road. Inspect the driveline (PTU, rear diff, skid plates for impact damage) extra carefully.

Found a Cherokee you're serious about? Get a verdict before you buy it.

Send us the listing and the VIN. We'll check the recalls, the fair-market range from real comparable listings, the known failures for that exact year and trim, and give you a straight answer: BUY, NEGOTIATE to a specific price, or WALK AWAY.

Live Mechanic Call ★ Most popular
$500

Take a mechanic with you: up to 1 hour on a live video call with a real mechanic — briefed on your exact car before the call — plus everything in the Full Verdict, with your written verdict after the call.

Full Verdict
$349

Complete written report in 24 hours: verdict, fair-market range from comparable listings, VIN/history/recall check, known failures with repair costs, in-person checklist, and a word-for-word negotiation script.

Get your verdict →

A CarVerdict is expert remote research, not a substitute for an in-person pre-purchase inspection — before you buy, have a qualified local mechanic put the car on a lift. We'll tell you exactly what to have them check.